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Frame System: Our flat rooflights use a thermally broken aluminum frame around the perimeter, often in a low-profile design. Some models have a two-part frame: an upper frame that holds the glass and a lower frame that fixes to the upstand. They clamp together sandwiching the roof membrane for waterproofness. The frame often has built-in gutters to channel condensation or any infiltrated moisture back out (though with correct install, water intrusion is minimal to none). The top surface of the frame slopes (even if the glass looks flat, usually glass is 6mm proud on one side and flush on other to create a slope) – this ensures rainwater runs off one end. The external glass usually overhangs the frame by 50-100mm, creating a nice “floating glass” and also acting like a drip-edge. Inside, the frame can have a plasterboard groove or finishing trim to give a neat interface with your ceiling.
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Installation & Upstand: Typically, a timber curb upstand (e.g. 100mm wide timber, 150mm high) is constructed on your roof. It should be level and ideally with a slight pitch. Roof membrane (felt, EPDM, GRP, etc.) is run up over that curb. The rooflight then sits on that and is screwed down. We provide screws and thermal caps to cover them. Sealant or butyl tape is used between frame and curb to seal. The sizes we quote are usually either overall frame or internal clear dimensions – we clarify that with you. Standard internal upstand = ordering size, etc. The height above roof when installed is low – often only 150-200mm at tallest point.
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Ventilation Options: For opening versions, the rooflight either has a hinged section or the entire unit lifts. Most common is a hinged vent with either a manual crank or electric actuator. Electric ones come with a chain drive or spindle that pushes the glass up about 150mm typically (not huge, but enough for vent). They can include a rain sensor – it’ll auto-close if it rains. Also, we integrate with home control systems if needed (some can connect to smart home or just have a standalone remote). The motors are 24V usually, with a transformer to wire to mains. For safety, many have an auto-stop if resistance is detected (like a finger). Opening rooflights still look flush outside; they just have a hidden mechanism and a weather seal that breaks when open. They remain outwardly low profile.
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Variants: We offer Walk-on rooflights – these are designed to be flush with a terrace floor and can be walked on safely. They use very thick laminated glass and a special nonslip surface. Also, Modular skylights: if the area is very large, we can install multiple flat lights in series with structural mullions. Or a multi-section one with a supporting bar (which might be needed if dimension exceeds glass limits). But often up to ~3m lengths can be single pane with thick glass. Circular rooflights are a neat variant – an aluminum circular frame with round laminated glass; these are great for design statements. We can also accommodate floor inclines – e.g., an opening to a basement where rooflight doubles as part of landscaping (walk-on plus slight anti-slip surface). Essentially, we tailor shape, size, and spec to your needs.
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Certification: Many of our flat lights have been tested for air permeability, water tightness, and wind resistance akin to windows (often achieving high classifications due to simple design). Some have burglar resistance tests (security glass, etc.). All are made to meet building regs for non-fragility too – meaning if someone had to step on it or fell on it, it should not break easily (laminated helps here). The inner laminate also qualifies it as a barrier in case of fire (stays in place under heat longer than tempered alone). These technical points mean building control and insurance are satisfied as well.
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